Wednesday, October 19, 2011

Sofia, Bulgaria

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It was quite some time before I reached Sofia that the standard churches and museums ceased to move me; once you've seen so many, the novelty wears off. Luckily, there are a few interesting monasteries nearby which bring a flutter of excitement and awe to the jaded traveler. Among these is a beautiful complex of monasteries atop a nearby mountain. I'd be damned if I could remember the name, but if you're in the area, you really can't miss it. Its been rumored that these monasteries will house the weary traveler for a night or two; I haven't tested this personally, but if true, I can hardly think of a more picturesque place to spend the night.

It was here, in full view of mount nameless that I had my introduction to both the best and worst and Bulgarian cuisine. One of the more traditional starters in Bulgaria, and allegedly an excellent hangover cure, is the local tripe soup. The curvilinearly timid would be put off by the name alone. A few of my travel companions were not dissuaded and gave the dish a try; neither finished. The best description I can muster is of a thin filmy-oily looking gruel with chunks of tripe which have a texture akin to mushrooms and the flavor of a ranch. Why anyone would spend the time to prepare such a dish and then actually consume it is beyond me. My guess is that this is a relic from the times when people had to use every last part of the animal, and were either not very creative, or didn't think to simply give the scraps to the dog. Luckily, the best of Bulgarian cuisine is delicious enough to make up for such heinous crimes against food. It is some kind of thick cream drizzled with just a bit of honey; beautiful in it's simplicity.

As with any place, once you've had your fill of the mountains, monasteries and tasty desserts, it's time to hit the town. Through some strange stroke of luck I fell in with a few familiar faces and some locals who were more that willing to show us around to all the best places in town. For a good night about town I would highly recommend starting in the Ale House, a place where you pour your own beer off a metered tap right next to your table. They also serve decent food, and on select nights have some hot talent light up the stage. Once you've had your fill, you can wonder off to one of many themed clubs, but I would personally recommend something entirely different; Karaoke Bar. I don't know how this evolved , but the Bulgarians are way into Karaoke. The routines are polished, the vocals are on key, and everyone has their song; I have never seen Karaoke done so well. If you have the stones, and you think you have the talent, there may be no better place to sing amongst the very best.

Up next Macedonia.

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